CHIMICA DEI PRODOTTI COSMETICI

To give the students the basics on the main categories of cosmetic products, on the raw materials used for their preparation and on the evaluation and legislative aspects that characterize and regulate both the production and the commercialization of the cosmetic.

lectures (powerpoint presentation)

Definition of cosmetic product and general considerations concerning the use of cosmetics.

Information on the market and on the distribution channels of cosmetics.

Delimitation of the area of ​​action of the cosmetic according to EEC Directives and Italian legislation.

Integumentary system, notes on skin morphology, surface hydrolipidic film, perspiration and perspiratio insensibilis, TEWL. Epidermis, dermis and hypodermis.

Natural hydration factor (NMF).

The pigment system (function and biosynthesis of melanin).

Percutaneous absorption.

Interface phenomena: surface tension, interfacial tension and free energy. Surface-active substances. The concept of HLB and calculation of its value. Properties and applications of surfactants. Micelle: structure and formation. The critical micelle concentration.

Dispersed systems: definition and classification.

Colloidal status: size, shape and types of colloidal systems. Stability of colloidal systems. Nerst Potential and Z potential. Effect of electrolytes, protective colloids.

Geli: definition, structure and methods of preparation.

Suspensions: characteristics, flocculation and sedimentation.

Emulsions: definition. Physical instability: creaming and sedimentation, flocculation, coalescence. Emulsifiers: selection criteria for their use in cosmetics.

Phospholipids, liposomes , cyclodextrines and their application in cosmetics.

Rheology: viscosity, rheological behavior of Newtonian and non-Newtonian fluids (pseudoplastic, plastic, dilatant). Thixotropy, hysteresis cycle. viscometers. Applications of rheology in the cosmetic industry.

Aerosol: definition, containers and valves. Propellants and their nomenclature. Biphasic and triphasic systems. Foaming spray. Cosmetic applications of aerosols.

Emulsifying surfactants: classification, characterization and use.

Oils, fats and waxes: description and characterization.

Hydrophilic colloids and thickening substances.

Preservatives from microbial pollution. Antioxidants.

Skin care products: moisturizing products; anti-aging products; products against skin blemishes; products for skin nutrition.

Products for skin and scalp cleansing: foam baths; shampoo, detergent emulsions.

Hair care products: balsams; dyes and hair dyes; undulating and modeling products.

Solar products: products for protection from solar radiation, UVA and UVB filters, mineral pigments, sun protection factor (SPF), natural and artificial tanning.

Modulators of the melanogenetic process: tanning and depigmenting ..

Products with depilatory action. Toothpaste deodorants and antiperspirants. Decorative cosmetics for nails and lips. Phytocosmetics.

Main methods used in the evaluation of the most important cosmetic functions. Evaluation of the harmlessness and efficacy of cosmetic products.

Regulation (EC) n. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products.

1. G. Proserpio - Le basi della cosmetologia

2. G. Proserpio, B. Ambreck, M. Ceoloni – Prontuario del cosmetologo – Tecniche Nuove.

3. I. Bonadeo – Prodotti cosmetici- Cosmetologia e tecnologia cosmetiche – Edizioni Liberia Cortina Milano.

4. G. Proserpio – Il sole e la pelle – SEPEM

5. Notes in PDF format